Last weekend I went to a friend’s house for dinner. As final preparations were being made in the kitchen, she asked me to run out to the garage and fetch some grape juice. I half expected to find a large bottle of Welch’s on the shelf next to her Martinelli’s stash. Much to my joy, I found a case of homemade grape juice in those good ol’ Mason jars that remind me of canning with my mom. Just the sight of those jars on the shelf brought back memories of steamy late-summer kitchens full of fruit: peaches, apricots, plums, tomatoes, and more. Sugar-water poured over the fruit releasing lively aromas. The feel of the pectin we’d place on top of preserves. We would sweat for hours in the kitchen knowing that in the winter we could open the pantry to treat ourselves with this fruit. That anticipation kept me working through the heat. Standing in my friend’s garage, seeing my breath in the December air, I couldn’t wait for the familiar “pwop” of the jar being opened.
Most bottles I plan on opening over the holidays are shaped a little differently than those Mason jars, but the contents still connote rich memories. Crush, barrels, bottling. Walks in the vineyards. The first bottle shared in that backstreet Paris bistro. Even fondue, a Christmas Eve family tradition.
So what bottles do I want to open? I’ve been saving a few.
For those who love soup, you may be under the impression that wine should not accompany soup. I say bollocks to that. I found a wonderful recipe for winter squash soup that, along with an escarole, fennel, and oak-leaf salad, paired beautifully with the 2004 Ash Hollow Cabernet Franc Rosé. Unfortunately, Ash Hollow’s rosé is sold out. But I’m sure you could find another suitable rosé. It’s a great way to drink up that bottle you thought might have to be stored until next summer. And the soup and salad make a nice light dinner to share with friends or as you plot your Christmas shopping strategies.
Either as a gift, or to enjoy with loved ones, wine helps to warm the winter season. And Walla Walla has some beauties. Some of my favorites for frosty nights with Christmas lights are big reds. Dunham Cellars has an excellent 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon VIII ($45) that sits near the top of my list. If you can get your hands on it, open a bottle of the 2003 Bunchgrass Founder’s Blend ($28). And I’m partial to the 2004 Syzygy Syrah ($28) at the moment; well-rounded big wine with a rich finish.
For whites I suggest the 2005 Ash Hollow Somanna ($20). A 50/50 blend of Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, it’s a lively white that pairs well with food and is acidic enough to stand up well to the rich holiday flavors. For those who want to give a bit more, Dunham also has a wonderful 2005 Shirley Mays Chardonnay ($35). Part of the proceeds from this wine are donated to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. Good wine. Good cause.
Enjoy the season. Enjoy the memories. Enjoy the wine. I know I will.
Cheers!
